12 Comments
Nov 11, 2023Liked by Abi Whistance

Good Saturday morning read as usual.

I love how the city has a vibrant food scene.

The recent Tom Kerridge series on hospitality highlighted the ups and downs of the industry. I’ve worked front of house and it’s knackering work multi tasking but in a good team it can be rewarding. The cooks worked flat out on a Friday and Saturday but I always made sure they got their drinks orders in (soft drinks) at 10pm and they’d box me off with a pizza for the way home.

in Bootle there’s the L20 restaurant that’s part of Hugh Baird. How many of the young workers being trained there will reach the pinnacle? Sure it’s worthy to aspire to but the middle market is saturated and in many places dominated by chains paying low wages, or in poorer communities it’s fast food and no where to go to eat together.

It’s a service industry that’s grown massively over the years but much of that has been in the era of cheap money and low inflation. That’s not the case now, and it’s hitting people’s spending power, and the ability of businesses to pay bills, source produce and turn a profit to pay the rent on top of the already inherent precariousness of the restaurant biz.

Good luck to everyone working in the sector going forward.

Can also recommend Stanley Tucci’s series visiting all the distinct regions of Italy.

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Nov 11, 2023Liked by Abi Whistance

Liverpool is very well known for its large range of vegan restaurants. I noticed that Manifest has excellent options. Nothing wrong with fine dining vegan-style 🤣

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Where are they Barbara?

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What? Vegan restaurants? Simplest to look on the Happy Cow app. But examples are: Bundobust, Down The Hatch, The Caledonian, The Vibe … vegetarian with vegan options: The Egg, Sanskruti etc Lots of meaty places have separate vegan menus, like Mowgli.

Or did you mean Manifest as mentioned in the article? 🤣🤣 Near the Baltic hotel.

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Thanks Barbara. I meant the vegan restaurants. 👍

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Nov 11, 2023Liked by Abi Whistance

Excellent piece for Saturday. A ‘star’ would not affect my dining habits, I like what I like and I eat where I like.

I agree with Mateo we need more of the independents and less of the chains. Although, when it comes to prices, sometimes it’s like pocket money verses a mortgage payment.

Good luck to the establishment that gets it first it can only be a good thing for Liverpool. People will finally see we scousers do have excellent taste.

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First, congratulations Jack on such a great article!

I grew up in Aughton (not in the posh bit) during the 70s and 80s. Our estate was like thousands on the edge of big cities: semi-detached houses full of families who'd moved out – mostly from north Liverpool – to suburbs. As everyone worked in Liverpool, it wasn't well off at all.

I cannot believe how much it's changed since Mark B opened Moor Hall.

As well as the three Michelin-star restaurants, there's a fancy coffee shops, a nice bar, amazing butchers, and old-school pub grub at the Stanley Arms.

The area, though not in "proper" Liverpool is only 10 miles from the Pier Head, so easy for anyone in north Liverpool (plus Southport/Ormskirk) who wants decent scran. While it was Dale St business owners who first built here with the railway, it's now the Scouse version of Essex/Cheshire – home to footballers, football workers, "businessmen" and people with Burberry teeth.

I hope its influence spreads around the area further – there's even a big-deal restaurant and a "tap room" in Maghull. Maghull! What a time to be alive.

I

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A cracking piece, that.

You're right on the core issue of 'narrative' - anything that offers a positive counter-point to a stereotypical or out-dated view is a good thing. But those who know Liverpool know how varied and interesting our dining scene is. Indeed, you reference many of the protagonists in your story.

Has the absence of a Michelin star hindered the growth of our tourism industry? Clearly not, as visitor growth and hotel investment demonstrates. Yes, there is a small cohort of wealthy diners who visit destinations to tick Michelin restaurants off their list, but I doubt they'd move the dial in terms of Liverpool's visitor numbers.

Likewise, there were those who argued loss of World Heritage status would hold Liverpool back, but that ship long since sailed, with ne'er a soul at the Pier Head to wave it off.

Yes, it would be a credit to our city if a Michelin star was to be forthcoming, but is it the be-all and end-all? Of course not - not with restaurants of the quality of The Art School, 8 by Sheridan and Manifest. (Re the latter, I sent a client there recently who wanted to entertain some wealthy guests from Manchester. This chap eats well and has never had to check a restaurant bill in his life. His review? "Off the charts good.")

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This alway reminds me of Robin Tripp, the catering student, in "Man about the house" and his comment " I want to run a restaurant that specialises in high prices"

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Since this is on topic, Charlie Jones who was one of only 3 chefs in the kitchen at the Michelin star restaurant SY23 in Aberystwyth will be cheffing at Bunch Wine Bar on Berry Street every Friday and Saturday from November 24th until Christmas. While we might not have a star restaurant in Liverpool, this could be a good opportunity to try some food prepared by someone who is capable of that standard. I think booking will be advisable for this one! Bunch always has amazing wine year round too.

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Good article Jack. While I can be in no way described as a "foodie", indeed I despair at the growing number of food programmes on TV, I think a thriving restaurant scene can only be beneficial to the city's reputation and encourage more visitors. I look forward to that first Michellin star!

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If The Barn has a Michelin Star, then the accolade is worthless - on my visit, the food and service were unexceptional and not worth the £80 a head charged.

The Art School, which apparently does not have a star, was different class - the food was unbelievable and the service pure theatre - well worth the £60 ahead charged.

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